The Evolution of Afro Hair Trends Through the Decades
A historical journey celebrating the iconic styles that have shaped Afro hair culture in North America
Afro hair isn’t just hair—it’s art, it’s culture, it’s history, and it’s resistance. Through the decades, Afro hair trends have been a reflection of the times, blending style with cultural, political, and personal identity. These are of course broad descriptions of the hair evolutions of the time and we also wanted to highlight, for awareness, some of the challenges faced as Afro hair became a symbol of resilience, empowerment and resistance in North America.
From the structured waves of the 1940s to the unapologetic celebration of natural curls today, we’re exploring the iconic styles, tools, and societal challenges that have defined Afro hair of the past century.
1940
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Marcel Wave ”
 Tools of the Era
- Marcel Irons: Heated tools used to create the iconic waves.
- Hot Combs: Metal combs heated on stovetops to straighten hair.
- Pomades and Hair Grease: Products like Royal Crown and Dixie Peach added shine and hold.
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The Marcel wave has made a comeback the past couple of years especially with the growing popularity of Pixie cuts!Â
The 1940s were all about sophistication and control, with styles like the Marcel wave leading the charge. This structured, wavy look was achieved using heated Marcel irons, which required skill and precision to create the perfectly aligned waves that symbolized refinement. Pressed hair was also popular during this time, as many Black women sought sleek, straight looks inspired by Hollywood glamour.
1950
Style of the decade :
The “ Pin-Up Curl”
Tools of the Era
- Setting Pins: Essential for pin curls and structured waves.
- Rollers: Used to set hair overnight for soft curls.
- Hair Nets: Helped maintain styles for extended wear.
The Black Pin-Up Curl & Society
While still facing unrelenting societal pressure, Black women in the 1950s began using their hairstyles to subtly assert individuality and cultural pride. The Civil Rights Movement’s early seeds inspired a quiet resistance to Eurocentric norms.
The post-war era brought a touch of glamor, with curls and updos becoming increasingly popular. Black women often emulated the voluminous styles of pin-up icons, but with unique adaptations that embraced their natural textures. Pin curls, created by setting small sections of hair with bobby pins, became a versatile and elegant choice.
1960
Style of the decade :
The “ Classic Afro”
 Tools of the Era
- Afro Picks: Iconic tools with wide teeth, often designed with Black cultural symbols
- Sheen Sprays: Products that added shine and moisture to natural hair.
- Natural Oils: Coconut and castor oils were staples for maintaining healthy hair.
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The Afro & Society                 Â
Of course, the Afro was often met with backlash. In Canada, workplaces like schools and government offices subtly discriminated against natural hair. This decade saw the emergence of the first conversations around hair freedom as a civil rights issue.Â
By the 1960s, the Afro was more than a hairstyle—it was a political statement. Black men and women wore their hair in its natural state as a declaration of self-acceptance and a rejection of societal standards. The larger, the better, as the Afro became synonymous with the Black Power Movement.
1970
Style of the decade :
The “ Blowout Afro ”
 Tools of the Era
- Blow Dryers with Picks: These attachments made it easier to fluff and shape the Afro.
- Picks with Metal Teeth: Provided durability for high-volume styling.
- Styling Combs: Essential for shaping and refining.
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The Blowout & Society
The 1976 U.S. case Jenkins v. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance saw Beverly Jenkins fired for wearing an Afro, a hairstyle deemed “extreme. ” The court sided with Jenkins, marking a significant victory  for hair discrimination cases.
Bigger and bolder, the 1970s Afro embraced volume. Blowouts added a fluffy, cloud-like softness to the classic Afro, and disco culture inspired glamorous variations with glitter, headbands, and oversized accessories.
1980
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Jheri Curl ”
Tools of the Era
- Chemical Kits: Required for the two-step perming process.
- Spray Activators: Kept curls moisturized and glossy.
- Plastic Caps: Essential for maintaining moisture overnight.
The Jheri Curl & Society
The high-maintenance Jheri curl highlighted disparities in beauty norms and sparked conversations about hair care accessibility.
The 1980s saw the rise of the Jheri curl, a glossy, loose curl look made famous by pop icons like Michael Jackson. This style was synonymous with luxury and individuality, though its upkeep was notoriously demanding.
1990
Style of the decade :
The “ Box Braids ”
Â
Tools of the Era
- Synthetic Hair Extensions: Added length and volume.
- Wide-Tooth Combs: Used to detangle before braiding.
- Edge Control Gels: Helped keep parts and edges sleek.
Â
The Black Braids & Society
The 1990s saw several cases of students being suspended for wearing braids, as schools claimed they violated dress codes. These incidents began to highlight the need for legal protections for natural hairstyles.
Thanks to cultural icons like Brandy and Janet Jackson, box braids dominated the 1990s. This protective style offered versatility and longevity, while celebrating African heritage.
2000
Style of the decade :
The “ Silk Press ”
Â
Tools of the Era
- Flat Irons: Revolutionized at-home straightening.
- Heat Protectant Sprays: Became essential to prevent damage.
- Paddle Brushes: Helped achieve smooth finishes.
Â
The Black Hair and society
Workplace discrimination against Afro hair persisted. The Crown Act (first passed in California in 2019) began to take shape in advocacy circles, eventually leading to legal protections for natural hair.
The early 2000s celebrated sleekness, with the silk press—a heat-straightening technique that maintained hair’s body and movement—becoming a go-to style. Relaxers were still popular, but the silk press offered a non-chemical alternative.
2010
Style of the decade :
The “ Wash-and-Go ”
 Tools of the Era
- Curl-Defining Creams: Essential for enhancing natural patterns.
- Diffusers: Helped dry curls without disrupting their shape.
- Wide-Tooth Combs and Fingers: Gentle detangling tools.
The natural hair movement encouraged Black women to embrace their curls, coils, and kinks without manipulation. The wash-and-go epitomized this ethos, showcasing natural textures in their raw beauty.
2020
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Knotless Braids ”
 Tools of the Era
- Pre-Stretched Hair Extensions: Streamline the braiding process.
- Edge Stylers: Multi-purpose tools for sleek finishes.
- Mousse and Setting Foams: Lock styles in place while reducing frizz.
Â
The Black Heritage and Society
With the Crown Act expanding, awareness of hair discrimination has grown. High-profile lawsuits have led to increased corporate accountability and cultural sensitivity training.
Knotless braids have taken center stage as a versatile, low-tension protective style. They represent a blend of traditional braiding techniques with modern aesthetics, offering comfort and longevity.
1940
Style of the decade :Â
 The “ Marcel Wave ”
Tools of the Era
- Marcel Irons: Heated tools used to create the iconic waves.
- Hot Combs: Metal combs heated on stovetops to straighten hair.
- Pomades and Hair Grease: Products like Royal Crown and Dixie Peach added shine and hold.
The Marcel wave has made a comeback the past couple of years especially with the growing popularity of Pixie cuts!
The 1940s were all about sophistication and control, with styles like the Marcel wave leading the charge. This structured, wavy look was achieved using heated Marcel irons, which required skill and precision to create the perfectly aligned waves that symbolized refinement. Pressed hair was also popular during this time, as many Black women sought sleek, straight looks inspired by Hollywood glamour.
1950
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Pin-Up Curl ”
 Tools of the Era
- Setting Pins: Essential for pin curls and structured waves.
- Rollers: Used to set hair overnight for soft curls.
- Hair Nets: Helped maintain styles for extended wear.
The Black Pin-Up Curl & Society
While still facing unrelenting societal pressure, Black women in the 1950s began using their hairstyles to subtly assert individuality and cultural pride. The Civil Rights Movement’s early seeds inspired a quiet resistance to Eurocentric norms.
The post-war era brought a touch of glamor, with curls and updos becoming increasingly popular. Black women often emulated the voluminous styles of pin-up icons, but with unique adaptations that embraced their natural textures. Pin curls, created by setting small sections of hair with bobby pins, became a versatile and elegant choice.
1960
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Classic Afro ”
 Tools of the Era
- Afro Picks: Iconic tools with wide teeth, often designed with Black cultural symbols
- Sheen Sprays: Products that added shine and moisture to natural hair.
- Natural Oils: Coconut and castor oils were staples for maintaining healthy hair.
Â
The Afro & Society                 Â
Of course, the Afro was often met with backlash. In Canada, workplaces like schools and government offices subtly discriminated against natural hair. This decade saw the emergence of the first conversations around hair freedom as a civil rights issue.Â
By the 1960s, the Afro was more than a hairstyle—it was a political statement. Black men and women wore their hair in its natural state as a declaration of self-acceptance and a rejection of societal standards. The larger, the better, as the Afro became synonymous with the Black Power Movement.
1970
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Blowout Afro ”
 Tools of the Era
- Blow Dryers with Picks: These attachments made it easier to fluff and shape the Afro.
- Picks with Metal Teeth: Provided durability for high-volume styling.
- Styling Combs: Essential for shaping and refining.
Â
The Blowout & Society
The 1976 U.S. case Jenkins v. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance saw Beverly Jenkins fired for wearing an Afro, a hairstyle deemed “extreme. ” The court sided with Jenkins, marking a significant victory  for hair discrimination cases.
Bigger and bolder, the 1970s Afro embraced volume. Blowouts added a fluffy, cloud-like softness to the classic Afro, and disco culture inspired glamorous variations with glitter, headbands, and oversized accessories.
1980
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Jheri Curl ”
 Tools of the Era
- Chemical Kits: Required for the two-step perming process.
- Spray Activators: Kept curls moisturized and glossy.
- Plastic Caps: Essential for maintaining moisture overnight.
Â
The Jheri Curl & Society
The high-maintenance Jheri curl highlighted disparities in beauty norms and sparked conversations about hair care accessibility.
The 1980s saw the rise of the Jheri curl, a glossy, loose curl look made famous by pop icons like Michael Jackson. This style was synonymous with luxury and individuality, though its upkeep was notoriously demanding.
1990
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Box Braids ”
 Tools of the Era
- Synthetic Hair Extensions: Added length and volume.
- Wide-Tooth Combs: Used to detangle before braiding.
- Edge Control Gels: Helped keep parts and edges sleek.
Â
The Black Braids & Society
The 1990s saw several cases of students being suspended for wearing braids, as schools claimed they violated dress codes. These incidents began to highlight the need for legal protections for natural hairstyles.
Thanks to cultural icons like Brandy and Janet Jackson, box braids dominated the 1990s. This protective style offered versatility and longevity, while celebrating African heritage.
2000
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Silk Press ”
 Tools of the Era
- Flat Irons: Revolutionized at-home straightening.
- Heat Protectant Sprays: Became essential to prevent damage.
- Paddle Brushes: Helped achieve smooth finishes.
The Black Hair and society
Workplace discrimination against Afro hair persisted. The Crown Act (first passed in California in 2019) began to take shape in advocacy circles, eventually leading to legal protections for natural hair.
The early 2000s celebrated sleekness, with the silk press—a heat-straightening technique that maintained hair’s body and movement—becoming a go-to style. Relaxers were still popular, but the silk press offered a non-chemical alternative.
2010
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Wash-and-Go ”
 Tools of the Era
Â
- Curl-Defining Creams: Essential for enhancing natural patterns.
- Diffusers: Helped dry curls without disrupting their shape.
- Wide-Tooth Combs and Fingers: Gentle detangling tools.
The natural hair movement encouraged Black women to embrace their curls, coils, and kinks without manipulation. The wash-and-go epitomized this ethos, showcasing natural textures in their raw beauty.
2020
Style of the decade :Â
The “ Knotless Braids ”
 Tools of the Era
Â
- Pre-Stretched Hair Extensions: Streamline the braiding process.
- Edge Stylers: Multi-purpose tools for sleek finishes.
- Mousse and Setting Foams: Lock styles in place while reducing frizz.
Â
The Black Heritage and Society
With the Crown Act expanding, awareness of hair discrimination has grown. High-profile lawsuits have led to increased corporate accountability and cultural sensitivity training.
Knotless braids have taken center stage as a versatile, low-tension protective style. They represent a blend of traditional braiding techniques with modern aesthetics, offering comfort and longevity.
Afro Hair Trends in Europe: A Different Conversation
In Europe, Afro hair has faced similar challenges but within a different cultural context. During the 20th century, many countries like the UK and France saw Afro hair as “exotic” yet unprofessional. The 2000s brought greater visibility to Afro hair, thanks to diasporic activism and events like Natural Hair Week UK. However, legal protections like the Crown Act remain rare in Europe, leaving advocacy as the primary tool for change.
Celebrating Heritage, Honoring Evolution
Afro hair has evolved alongside societal shifts, standing as a symbol of beauty, identity, and resistance. Here we celebrate every coil, curl, and kink while empowering our community to embrace their hair stories.
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 What’s your favorite Afro hair trend? Do you want a more in depth article? Let us know in the comments below!
